How to Build a Recessed Wall Unit

Build the Frame
The bookcase featured in this example is 12″ deep and sits 6″ into the recess. The frame and shelving are Custom 3/4″ oak, with a 1/4″ oak plywood backing to add strength. Construct the bookcase frame with dado and rabbet joints, created by fitting one piece of wood into the routed recess of another piece. A dado joint is in the middle of a board, and a rabbet joint is at the end of a board.

Make your recesses no deeper than half the size of the working material. For example, you’ll want to rout a 3/8″ recess in the 3/4″ oak sidewalls displayed in this project. Be careful not to make the recesses too deep because this can weaken the board. Create rabbet joints for the top and bottom of the frame, and dado joints for the cabinet top and the permanent shelf. Also, create a 1/4″ recess for the backing to attach on to the rear of the frame.

For the top and bottom of the built-in frame, use wood glue to help hold the joints together, and also enter crossing screws, down from the top and in from the sides. For this project, use #5 or #6 screws that are 1 1/2″ long, or twice the thickness of the wood. Avoid nailing the joints together because the nails can work loose with the wood’s movement. Once the “box” of the frame is constructed, attach the 1/4″ oak backing into its recess. Fasten it with glue and screws every 6″. This will “rack,” or pull the frame together as you work on the remainder of the project.

This built-in unit is the combination of a cabinetry system and shelving. The entire built-in will actually rest on top of a toe kick that supports the total weight of the unit. A toe kick is a 3 1/2″ inset that allows the user to stand closer to the shelves. This frame is constructed of oak 1″ x 4″s, with perpendicular boards every 12″ to disperse weight bearing and add strength. Assemble it like a box frame, and make sure it’s level because it will affect the balance of the rest of the project. Place the frame onto the toe kick and fasten it with glue and screws.

The cabinetry system is next, and is built directly into the frame. It allows for four 6″ high drawers, with two sets of 28″ high cabinets beneath the drawers. As a rule, limit cabinet doors to a maximum width of 24″, for structural purposes. These cabinet doors are each about 17″ wide. You can make your own doors and drawers, or have them custom-made. Also, your choice of door hinges and drawer slides will depend on how you use the storage space, and will affect how you hang the doors and drawers. Select the doors, drawers and appropriate hardware in the planning stages to ensure necessary clearances.

Adding Shelf Strength
You can increase a shelf’s strength by attaching a 1″ x 2″ hardwood apron to the front edge. Similarly, applying an apron to the back of the shelf creates the same effect, while not interfering with design. These aprons make the shelf almost 400 percent stronger. You can create an even stronger apron by dadoing the back of the apron to cover the shelf’s front edge.

Installing the Shelving
Once the cabinetry is in place, you’re left with about 56″ for shelf space. Install the permanent shelf near the midway point (around 68″), where you previously routed dado joints on each side of the built-in frame. Bookcases more than 8′ tall should have permanent shelving every 3′. Glue the shelf into place, and secure it with diagonally entered screws from the bottom.

While the fixed shelf provides structural integrity, additional adjustable shelves provide long-term storage flexibility. Normally, shelves sit 12″ to 15″ apart, but this can vary depending on how they will be used. Consider the items that will sit on the shelves and add 2″ for fingers to reach the top of each. The permanent, middle shelf here allows for about 28″ of free space, or about one adjustable shelf, on each side. Supporting hardware for adjustable shelves is relatively inexpensive and easy to install. You can use common shelf standards, or the more attractive shelf pins. Select the standards or pins that meet your project’s budget, decorative and/or load-bearing demands.

Shelf pins typically have 1/4″ diameter shanks that fit into holes of the same diameter. The holes are vertically spaced about 1″ to 2 1/2″ apart, and positioned starting at 10″ up from the bottom and 10″ down from the top of the frame. In this case, create 8″ of shelf pin holes both above and below the permanent shelf. Allow the shelves to overhang the pins by 2″ in the front and back. Your local lumber company sells drill templates that help ensure accurate shelf-pin holes. Pre-drill holes before finishing the hardwood, and be careful not to drill through the sidewall.

Completing the Job

Finish the Woodwork
Once you’ve drilled holes for the shelf pins or standards, the project is ready for on-site finishing. The key to a good finish is repeated sanding and multiple finish coats.

Anchor to the Wall
Allow the finished hardwood to dry completely before installing the bookcase, and use specified hardware to mount the frame into the wall. Brick and stone walls require masonry anchors, while studded walls require screws. Use a 3″ to 4″ long, #6, darkened or antique brass screw. Mount the unit into the wall with two vertical rows, between 3′ and 4′ apart (horizontally), securing the anchors directly into the studs or stone every 18″ (vertically).

Technical assistance and/or photos provided by: The Architectural Woodwork Institute, Potomac Falls, Va.; Merillat Industries, Inc., Adrian, Mich.; and, Dan Kelly Diversified Woodworks, Mogadore, Ohio.